Captain's Log 2021 - Home Again. September 24th - October 4th 2021

It's been two years since I last saw Hull Island. This time I was going alone, and after the challenges of the past couple of years I was certainly ready for the journey.  I want some peace and quiet and natural beauty all around.  

While it's more fun to be there with others, going by myself is more challenging and exciting.  

The US Canada border finally opened to foreigners in August 2021.  Applicants for entry had to be made on-line more than 72 hours in advance and include a photo of your proof of Covid vaccination card, then within 3 days of the date to enter, I had to get a covid test. 

I containerized more this year... it was so much better. 

I was about the 7th car in line at border... only two of eight lanes open and through in 10 minutes.  For the first time they asked if I had any marijuana and/or alcohol and tobacco.  I only had a box of cigars that my friend Del Livingston gave me as a wedding present from his wedding. I loved smoking one a day, often in the evening sitting on the covered porch and watching and listening to the rain and animals. Super relaxing, thanks Dell and Christine!

The ferry passage and drive northwest to Port McNeill was quiet and quick, about 4 hours.  I checked in at Haida Way Inn as usual.  Mask indoors required and they couldn't muster enough staff for the restaurant or breakfast.  No traditional Canadian breakfast? Sunday morning I bought apple turnovers at the IGA and coffee at Mugzy's... much better.  

I shopped for food supplies and then headed over to get my boat.  The boat was a mess.  It hadn't been started up and prepped as I was assured, and it definitely hadn't been stored inside as I thought I was paying for.  I jumped in to test start the motor and noticed the small dashboard with electrical switches was loose and hanging outside the dashboard.  Small screws and fuses were in the cup holder...Hmmm.  I tried to start the motor before committing to launch and got nothing.  Both batteries were dead.  I used the Stef -150 to jump start the boat and it worked, although Shop Rite lent me a back-up battery just in case it was needed.  Which was immediately as the batteries weren't charged enough to last.

BRNR back in the water for the first time since sinking two years ago.

It's now like a RAIL boat

Loaner battery sitting by the alder tree and grass

Fuel gauge which doesn't normally worked showed empty so I loaded up with a 1/2 tank of gas.  The VHF radio also wasn't working which is a much bigger problem.  No emergency communications or beacon.  Well, I thought I could live without it for now and made the decision to go anyway.  At least the navigation system was working.  The wind and waves were huge and I was crashing into 3 - 5 ' whitecaps which were splashing over the bow.  Within 10 minutes of getting into the straits the engine started to lose power and run rough.  I was pretty worried it would stop running so turned around and headed back.  10 minutes back near the harbor entrance the motor smoothed out and seemed to be OK.  I figured maybe it was water in the gas.  So once again I headed towards Hull.  This time I made it about 20 minutes out into the Johnstone Straits with rough conditions before more problems arose.  First the navigation system went blank - big problem. Then the windshield wipers quit.  I was sure I was having an electrical meltdown and the engines were going next.  Holy cow that would be a mess with no radio and almost no boats out in the crappy weather! I could be drifting for hours. I made it back to Port McNeill, got my trailer and returned the boat to the shop. It was definitely out of commission and I needed a plan B having come this far.

I called James Wilson at Silver King Adventures and asked if he could take me to Hull.  The next day, Monday morning 9 am, I joined two lumber surveyors who were headed towards Lagoon Cove.  The weather was even worse and I was totally happy to be on a bigger heavier boat with someone else driving.  Boat taxi was the way to go! 

On the way, we saw a couple of humpback whales and then as we entered Barronette Passage we came upon a pod of about 8 Orca whales directly ahead 50 - 100 yards away.  We stopped the boat and watched a while to let them pass.  It was the closest I've been to Orcas and totally cool to see such amazing whales swimming freely in our neighborhood.

Unloading to the dock with James's help took less than 3 minutes.  We agreed on a pick-up ride one week from arrival and he was off.  It was now very quiet.  I took a few deep breaths, calmed down, listened for a minute, then headed up to camp.

Rainbow Chaser, Silver King Adventures.  What a relief to have a heavy boat and James driving.  Very relaxing there and back.

Major workout hauling gear to camp

I'm happy to report that the camp faired well in the past two years.  The cabin was totally dry inside and no sign of any insects or critters.  It was like entering a time machine to see everything exactly as we walked out 2 years ago.

Despite suffering a torn tarp and getting rained on for two years, the post and beam camp kitchen looked great.  The foundation rocks hadn't moved at all, rock solid. Nor did the structure on the foundation.  

Torn to fine shreds...everything wet

Cabin inside was dry and pest free. Outside the woodpeckers attacked. 

20 - 30 holes drilled by woodpeckers.  At least they stopped when they hit tyvek so no holes into cabin.

I had a full tank of 900 gallons of fresh water and the solar powered batteries and inverter turned on and showed over 13 volts.  Plenty of power even though the panels had been flattened by the wind and were covered with cedar needles.  Although it's not really roughing it with all Hull's infrastructure, it sure is nice to have fresh water, solar power and a warm dry cabin.  

Water collected is getting clearer as more natural moss filter grows in

Huge stump floated into landing area.  Fun to see what presents the wind and tides bring forth

The meadow and nearby woods have all grown in.  The spy hole windows created two years ago have mostly disappeared with new growth making it difficult to see the boats passing in Havana Channel.  The salal is closing in on the trails and there are at least 50 small cedars, firs and hemlocks growing in the field.  A couple of skinny alders fell up the hill from the cabin without hitting anything. The alders continue to rot in place.  With the recent rains the mosses all look super healthy, lush and green.  It felt like the camp was settled and peaceful. I felt at home and mostly comfortable.

I spent two days cutting off what remained of the old tarp and adding a new one to cover the kitchen. I want to protect the wood until we get the metal roof on next summer.  The new tarp is heavier and I fastened it down much better by adding battens and rolling it under the eaves and adding even more battens.  There were two very windy and rainy days to test the new cover and it held up very well.  I'm looking forward to seeing if it holds through the winter and spring.  

New tarp trimmed to fit and held down with plenty of battens screwed in place

Will be nice to have dry wood for the stove next year. Wood rack built from surplus construction materials.

Fitted tarp - thanks Frank and Liz Hattemer

I dumped the old gas from my Stihl chainsaws and added new premixed fuel.  Both saws started immediately which was a most welcome surprise. Phew.  I cut down 3 or 4 more alders and split and stacked fresh wood in a woodpile I made to fit a tarp the Hattemer's gave me about 6 years ago.  I love finding a good use for stuff we've been saving for years.   I also restacked the wet wood and covered that as well.  It might be good for campfires next visit.

After six days of mostly rain, Sunday morning was beautiful. 

Audrey's sweetgrass brush nurturing the next generation

First time for island stew,  using leftovers from massive steak dinner the night before.

I was on Hull for one week and it rained 6 of the 7 days.  While the rain was off I got a fair amount of work done outside, and while the rain was on and in the evenings after dark I spent a lot of time reading, quietly sitting, observing nature and organizing the cabin.  Although the wind and rain were a bit tiresome, it led to a very relaxing time. I also seemed to sleep a lot bunking in 10 + hours a night on most nights.  The wood stove kept the cabin warm while outside temperatures dropped to the low 30's at night.  

Reading Walden by Thoreau by the wood stove in our cabin in the woods.  Crazy irony.

View from my toilet, totally fresh clean air. Bears behind??

More whales.  For the first time, a pair of Orcas coming down the east side of Hull spotted from the shore after hearing their heavy breathing, then two more sets of humpbacks on the ride home.  Whales everywhere this year and apparently the locals are all talking about it too, everyone's happy to see so many in the area.  

With morning coffee, binoculars and a lawn chair I sat and watched a very large blue heron standing on kelp fishing by the dock.  Earlier in the week, I saw and heard two herons together.  They look like Pterodactyls and when they squawk they are the two loudest birds in the area. Given there are Ravens around, that's saying a lot. After 40 minutes or so, I decided the bird was a more patient fisher than I was observer,  so I left.  The same bird was fishing again on the west shore about 50 feet from the landing.   

Mike Buttle, Jeff and a dog stopped by in the Buttle Shuttle.  They tossed me three cold beers, chatted a short while then back to work.  

Buttle Shuttle hauling a tanker of beer on deck

Thanks Mike!  After a 7 day alcohol drought you made my day.
Sunday October 3rd 2021 

One more woodpile and camp kitchen photo!

Looking around the camp and structures I think of the many stories and people who've helped along the way.   I revel in what we've  accomplished and the beauty enhanced.  I definitely appreciate how this has happened and feel fortunate to be part of the experiences.

I look forward to the adventures ahead and hope family and friends continue to join in.